Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 110III. nodaļa

Vrikasē no zušiem

Eel fricassee

  • Serves 4
  • 45 minutes
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Wrikassee no suscheem.

Modernizētslpp. 197–198 · PDF 211–212
4 porcijas

The book gives no quantities; the amounts below are ours.

Method

5 soļi
  1. Cut the eels into 4–5 cm pieces, rinse and pat dry.
  2. Heat the butter in a wide pan until it foams and turns golden brown. Add the eel, onion and allspice and cook gently for 8–10 minutes, turning the pieces now and then.
  3. Pour in your chosen liquid, cover and simmer for 10 minutes, until the flesh comes away from the bone (63 °C).
  4. Whisk the yolks with the vinegar and a ladle of the hot sauce. Take the pan off the heat and stir this in, then warm over low heat, stirring gently, until the sauce thickens; don't let it boil, or the yolks will curdle.
  5. Season with salt, stir in the parsley and serve.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book skins small eels, or scrubs them well, cleans them and cuts them into small pieces, braises them a while in golden-brown butter with chopped onion and allspice, adds meat broth, or water with wine, or cream if needed, and finishes the sauce with egg yolk, wine vinegar, salt and chopped parsley, letting it "boil thick". The amounts and times are ours. We keep the sauce below the boil once the yolks are in.

Eel today

the European eel is critically endangered; see 03-109. Monkfish, wels catfish or conger eel, in chunks, are good substitutes and cook in about the same time.

Skin

the book either skins the eels or scrubs off the slime and leaves the skin on. Skinned eel makes a neater fricassee; ask the fishmonger to do it.

The closing advice

the author's bare-hand trick for lifting a pot of boiling fish is a historical curiosity, not something to try.

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