№ 71III. nodaļa

Stiepats

Poached chub with peppercorns and allspice

  • Serves 4
  • about 40 minutes
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Steepats.

Modernizētslpp. 172–173 · PDF 186–187
4 porcijas

The book gives no quantities; the amounts below are ours.

Method

5 soļi
  1. Scale and gut the fish, pull out the gills and split it lengthwise along the backbone into two halves. Rinse well.
  2. Bring the water and salt to the boil in a wide pan, then take the pan off the heat. Lay in the fish halves with the cut, bony side down.
  3. Put the pan back on the heat and bring back to a gentle simmer. Skim off the foam, then add the peppercorns and allspice. Simmer gently for 10–15 minutes, until the flesh flakes and reaches 63 °C at the thickest part.
  4. Meanwhile make the sauce. Whisk the wine, water, lemon sugar and yolks together cold in a small pan. Set over low to medium heat and whisk without stopping until it froths and thickens. Take it off the heat as soon as it reaches the boil.
  5. Lift the fish out, drain, lay it in a warm dish and pour the sauce over.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

salted river water brought to the boil, taken off the heat before the split fish goes in bony side down, skimming, then peppercorns and allspice are the book's. It ends with "make a sauce as for carp" without saying which. We use the red wine sauce of 03-038 (wine, half as much water, sugar rubbed with lemon peel and 5 yolks, which we scale down to 3); the other carp recipes are 03-034–03-045. The amounts and times are ours.

Which fish? Mühlenbach and Endzelīns identify stiepats as the chub (sapals, Squalius cephalus); an older dictionary gives it as the ide (ālants). Both are carp-family river fish, softer and bonier than carp, just as the book says. Neither is easy to buy, so carp or bream are the practical choices.

Bones

chub has many fine forked bones. Eat it carefully, or scoring the flesh at 1 cm intervals before poaching helps (our suggestion).

Safety

carp-family fish can carry parasites. Always cook them through.

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