Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 62III. nodaļa

Pildīti aseri

Stuffed perch braised in white wine, with fish dumplings

  • Serves 4
  • about 2 hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Pilditi asseri.

Modernizētslpp. 167–168 · PDF 181–182
4 porcijas

The book gives no quantities; the amounts below are ours.

Method

8 soļi
  1. With kitchen scissors, cut off the spiny fins along the back and belly. Scale the fish (see 03-060).
  2. Bone through the back: lay a fish on its belly. With a thin, sharp knife, cut along one side of the backbone from behind the head to the tail, then work the blade down over the ribs, freeing the flesh from the bones without cutting through the belly skin. Do the same on the other side. Snip through the backbone with scissors just behind the head and just before the tail, and lift it out with the innards. Pull out the gills. Rinse inside and pat dry.
  3. With a small knife or spoon, scrape most of the flesh off the skin, leaving a layer about 5 mm thick so the skin holds its shape (our simplification; see Notes). Pick out any bones.
  4. Stuffing: chop the flesh finely, or pulse it in a food processor, with the breadcrumbs, butter, eggs, salt, nutmeg, parsley, anchovies and lemon zest until it is a smooth, soft paste. Poach a teaspoonful in simmering water and taste it for seasoning (our addition).
  5. Fill each fish through the back with the stuffing, so that it has its natural shape again. Keep any leftover stuffing for the dumplings. Sew the back closed with string, or pin it with cocktail sticks.
  6. Lay the fish, back up, in a wide pan with a lid. Add the wine, water, butter, breadcrumbs, mace and lemon juice. Bring to a gentle simmer, cover and cook over low heat for 15–20 minutes, until the stuffing is 75 °C in the centre.
  7. Dumplings: while the fish cook, shape the leftover stuffing into balls about 2 cm across with wet hands. Melt the butter in a small pan and cook the onion for 3 minutes, then add the morels, mushrooms and anchovies, and a ladle of the braising liquid. Poach the dumplings in this for 6–8 minutes, adding the oysters and crayfish tails for the last 2–3 minutes.
  8. Lift the fish onto a warm dish, pull out the string or sticks, and pour the braising liquid over. Spoon the dumplings and their sauce around them.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

cutting off the sharp fins, freeing the flesh from the backbone with a sharp knife so the fish stays whole, taking out the innards through the back, the stuffing of the fish's own flesh with breadcrumbs, washed butter, unbeaten eggs, salt, nutmeg, parsley, anchovies and lemon zest, sewing the fish up and cooking it covered with wine, a little water, butter, breadcrumbs, mace and lemon juice, and the dumplings from the leftover stuffing cooked with oysters, crayfish tails, morels, briedenes, anchovies, butter and onion are all the book's. The amounts, times and the safety temperature are ours.

Boning

the book takes out all the flesh so that only the whole skin, head and tail are left, then fills it. That takes practice. Leaving a thin layer of flesh on the skin is easier and the fish holds together better. A fishmonger may bone the fish through the back for you if asked.

Safety

the stuffing contains raw egg, so cook it until it is 75 °C in the centre.

Briedenes

we read them as field mushrooms (see 03-051).

Perch

see 03-060. Small trout, whiting or small pike-perch can be boned and stuffed the same way.

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