Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 49II. nodaļa

To pašu citādi

Mutton braised in wine and vinegar, with a sweet crumb crust

  • Serves 6
  • about 3 hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796To paschu zittadi.

Variants receptei № 48 To aitu jeb jēru gaļu tā sataisīt, ka viņa kā briežu cepets smeķē

Modernizētslpp. 94–95 · PDF 108–109
6 porcijas

The book gives ½ stops of French wine, 1 kortelis of vinegar and a good handful of salt, which converts to 640 ml, 320 ml and roughly 40–60 g. We've used about two thirds, for a smaller joint.

Method

7 soļi
  1. Trim off excess fat, and the kidney if the joint has one. On a saddle or a bone-in loin, have the butcher cut off the chine bone on the outside so the joint sits flat.
  2. Put the meat in a snug pot, add the wine and vinegar, and pour in water until the meat is just covered. Bring to the boil and skim off the foam that rises.
  3. Add the juniper, salt, marjoram, onions and cloves. Cover and simmer very gently until completely tender: 2–2½ hours for shoulder, 1¾–2¼ hours for leg. A skewer should slide in with no resistance.
  4. Lift out the meat. While it is still warm, peel off the thin skin (the fell) and trim off loose fat.
  5. Heat the oven to 200 °C (180 °C fan). Mix the breadcrumbs, sugar and melted butter and press the mixture firmly over the top and sides of the meat.
  6. Put it on a baking tray or in an ovenproof dish and bake for 15–20 minutes, until the crust is golden brown.
  7. Spoon the cherry sauce into a warm dish and set the meat on top.

Notes

Variant

this is the book's second way with 02-048, mutton or lamb made to taste like venison. Instead of 6–8 days in vinegar and a spit, the meat is boiled in wine and vinegar with juniper, then given a sweet crumb crust.

What the book says vs. what we added

the kidney taken out and the outside bone cut off, the meat boiled until "completely soft" in ½ stops of French wine, 1 kortelis of vinegar and water to cover, skimmed, with crushed juniper, a good handful of salt, marjoram, onions and cloves, then skinned while warm, coated with breadcrumbs, sugar and melted butter, browned in the oven on a tin dish or iron plate, and served over cherry sauce. The cut, times, oven temperature and crust amounts are ours.

Salt

a good handful of salt in the cooking liquid makes it a light brine (about 1.5–2%) that seasons the meat right through. Don't salt the crust.

Sugar

a sweet crumb crust on roast meat was ordinary in the 18th century. The book gives no amount; 1 tbsp gives a hint of caramel without tasting like pudding.

Cold

the book says both dishes (this and 02-048) can be eaten cold, because the sauce has little butter in it. Cool the meat within 2 hours, keep it in the fridge and eat it within 3 days, thinly sliced, with the sauce at room temperature.

Cooking liquid

strained, it is too sharp to serve as soup, but a few spoonfuls will brighten the cherry sauce.

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