№ 48II. nodaļa

To aitu jeb jēru gaļu tā sataisīt, ka viņa kā briežu cepets smeķē

Venison-style roast lamb with cherry sauce

  • Serves 6
  • 3–6 days' marinating, then about 2 hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796To aitu- jeb jehru-gallu tà sataisiht, ka winna kà breeschu-zeppets smekke.

Modernizētslpp. 93–94 · PDF 107–108
6 porcijas

The book gives no quantities, only 6 or 8 days in vinegar; the amounts below are ours.

Method

9 soļi
  1. Trim off loose fat and any remains of the kidney fat. Roll and tie the boned joint with string into a compact shape, like a haunch of venison.
  2. Put it in a snug glass, ceramic or stainless-steel dish, or a large freezer bag. Scatter over the juniper and bay and pour in the vinegar and water until the meat is just covered. Cover and refrigerate (0–4 °C) for 3–6 days, turning it once a day.
  3. On the day, rinse the meat well under cold water. Dip it into a large pan of boiling water for 30 seconds, then pull or trim off the thin papery skin (the fell), leaving the fat underneath. Pat dry.
  4. Cut the back fat into strips 5 mm thick and 5–6 cm long, chill them, and thread them in rows through the surface of the meat with a larding needle. Without a needle, lay the bacon slices over the top instead.
  5. Heat the oven to 220 °C (200 °C fan). Put the meat on a rack in a roasting tin, roast for 15 minutes, then turn the oven down to 170 °C (150 °C fan). Baste with melted butter every 15 minutes. Roast until a thermometer in the thickest part reads 58–60 °C for pink or 65 °C for medium: roughly 1–1¼ hours in all for a 1.8 kg boned leg.
  6. About 10 minutes before the end, dust the meat all over with the salted flour, baste once more and turn the oven back up to 220 °C so the coating crisps.
  7. Rest the meat, loosely covered, for 15 minutes. It will rise another 3–5 °C.
  8. Meanwhile make the sauce: simmer the cherries with the wine, sugar, cinnamon and cloves for 10 minutes. Skim the fat off the roasting juices and add the juices. Stir in the starch mixture and simmer for 1 minute, until glossy. Take out the cinnamon and cloves.
  9. Cut off the string, pour the sauce into a warm dish and set the meat on top.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book has you cut the roast to look like venison, take out the kidney and all the bones, pin it back into shape with small wooden skewers, and leave it in vinegar for 6 or 8 days, just covered, turned daily and sprinkled with crushed juniper and bay. Then it is washed, dipped in boiling water, skinned without losing the fat, larded like a game bird, spit-roasted with frequent basting, dusted with salted flour shortly before serving, and set in a dish over cherry sauce. The oven, temperatures, times, diluted vinegar and cherry sauce recipe are ours.

Vinegar

the book allows 6 or 8 days "if the vinegar is not too strong". Modern wine vinegar (6%) is stronger than most 18th-century household vinegar, so we dilute it half and half and shorten the time to 3–6 days. Much longer, and the outside turns grey and soft.

Which cut

taking out the kidney points to the saddle (the loin on both sides of the backbone), boned and pinned back into shape. A boned leg is easier to find and to roll. Mutton, from an older sheep, suits the game treatment better than young lamb.

Safety

marinate in the fridge, never at room temperature, and in a non-reactive container: vinegar attacks aluminium and bare iron. Whole cuts of lamb are safe at 63 °C with a 3-minute rest; pinker meat is a matter of choice.

Spit-roasting

if you have a rotisserie, use it. That is the book's method.

Variant

02-049 makes the same dish another way: boiled in wine and vinegar, then baked with a sweet crumb crust.

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