Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 46II. nodaļa

Pildītas aitu mēles

Braised lamb's tongues with lemon and egg-yolk sauce

  • Serves 4
  • about 2¼ hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Pilditas aitu-mehles.

Modernizētslpp. 91 · PDF 105
4 porcijas

The book gives no quantities; the amounts below are ours.

Method

6 soļi
  1. Scrub the tongues under cold running water, scraping off any slime with a knife. Put them in a pan with the water, wine, rosemary, pepper, ginger and salt, bring to the boil and skim. Simmer gently, partly covered, until a skewer slides easily into the thickest part: 1¼–1½ hours for lamb's tongues, 2–2½ hours for sheep's tongues.
  2. Lift the tongues out and, while they are still warm, peel off the thick skin (our addition). It comes away easily when hot and is tough once cold. Trim off the root end with its gristle, small bones and fat. Strain and keep the poaching liquid.
  3. Leave the tongues to cool for 10 minutes, then cut each one lengthwise into 3 slices.
  4. Melt the butter in a wide sauté pan over low heat and soften the onion for 5 minutes without browning. Lay in the tongue slices, scatter over the parsley, mace and breadcrumbs, and cook gently for 5 minutes, turning the slices once.
  5. Pour in the broth, cover and simmer very gently for 15–20 minutes.
  6. Whisk the egg yolks with the lemon juice and sugar. Take the pan off the heat, whisk a ladle of the hot sauce into the yolks, then stir the mixture back into the pan. Return to low heat and stir until the sauce thickens slightly, 2–3 minutes. Don't let it boil, or the yolks will curdle. Season with salt and serve.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the method is the book's: the tongue scraped clean, boiled with a little wine, rosemary, pepper, ginger and salt, cooled, cut lengthwise in three, stewed with butter, onion, parsley, mace and grated bread, simmered covered with a little broth, and finished with egg yolk, lemon juice, a little sugar and salt "as everyone likes". Peeling the cooked tongues, the amounts and the times are ours.

"Stuffed"

the title says stuffed tongues, but the text has no stuffing. If you want them stuffed, cut each tongue into 3 slices without cutting through the root end, spread the onion, parsley and crumb mixture between the slices, and braise them whole.

Sourcing

the book takes the tongue out of a scalded sheep's head (see 02-043). Lamb's tongues are sold at halal, Turkish and Middle Eastern butchers, often frozen in packs. Calf's or pork tongues work too: allow 1 calf's tongue or 2 pork tongues for 4, and simmer them for 2–2½ hours.

Sweet-sour finish

egg yolk, lemon and a little sugar is a typical 18th-century sauce finish. Add the sugar a pinch at a time; the sauce should taste lemony, not sweet.

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