Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 28II. nodaļa

Ragū no teļu gaļas ar vēžiem

Veal ragout with crayfish

  • Serves 6
  • about 2½ hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Ragout no tellu-gallas ar wehscheem.

Modernizētslpp. 72 · PDF 86
6 porcijas

The book gives no quantities except "a handful of flour"; the amounts below are ours.

Method

8 soļi
  1. Rinse the veal, cover it with the cold water in a large pot, bring to the boil and skim well. Add the ginger and salt and simmer, partly covered, for 1–1¼ hours, until nearly tender.
  2. Meanwhile, cook the crayfish: chill live ones in the freezer for 20 minutes, then drop them head first, a few at a time, into a large pan of fast-boiling salted water and boil for 5 minutes. Drain and cool.
  3. Twist off the tails and peel them, pulling out the dark intestinal thread. Crack the claws and take out the meat. Keep the meat covered in the fridge.
  4. Crayfish butter: pound the shells and heads in a mortar, or chop them in a sturdy food processor. Melt the butter in a pan, add the shells and cook gently for 15–20 minutes, stirring, until the butter turns red; don't let it brown. Add 200 ml water, simmer for 5 minutes, then strain through muslin into a bowl, pressing hard. Chill until the red butter sets on top and lift it off (the method is ours, see Notes).
  5. Lift the veal out of the pot and strain the broth.
  6. Melt the 20 g butter in a wide saucepan, stir in the flour and cook for 2–3 minutes without browning. Whisk in 600 ml of the broth a little at a time and bring to the boil.
  7. Add the crayfish butter, the veal, the claw meat and the tails. Simmer very gently, uncovered, for 20–30 minutes, until the veal is tender and the sauce smooth. Season with the mace and salt.
  8. Lift the veal into a warm dish with the sauce, and lay the crayfish tails on top.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book boils a leg or breast of veal in water, skims it, adds crushed ginger and salt and cooks it until almost done. Meanwhile it boils crayfish with salt, takes the meat from the claws and tails and makes crayfish butter from the shells. Butter and a handful of flour are cooked together, the veal broth added, and the crayfish butter, the veal and the claws and tails go into the sauce to simmer slowly until the meat is done and the sauce smooth, with mace and salt. The tails are laid on the meat to serve. The amounts, times and the crayfish-butter method are ours.

Crayfish butter

the book doesn't describe how to make it here, which suggests every cook knew. Our method (shells cooked in butter, strained, set on water) is the standard one.

Killing crayfish

chilling and then plunging them head first into boiling water kills them within seconds. Cooked whole crayfish work too; skip the boiling.

The cut

the book doesn't say to cut the veal up, but a ragout is served in pieces; we cut it before boiling. A bone-in breast can also be boiled whole and cut between the ribs before it goes into the sauce.

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