Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 6II. nodaļa

Tas īkšķu (jeb nieru) gabals no vērša

Larded roast fillet of beef with anchovy sauce

  • Serves 6
  • about 1¼ hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Tas ihkschku (jeb neeru) gabbals no wehrscha.

Modernizētslpp. 50–51 · PDF 64–65
6 porcijas

The book gives two anchovies for the sauce and uses a whole fillet "as large as it comes"; the other amounts are ours.

Method

7 soļi
  1. Trim the silverskin off the fillet. Cut the fat into fine strips about 3 mm thick and 4 cm long and lard the top of the fillet neatly in rows with a larding needle.
  2. Heat the oven to 220 °C. Set the fillet on a rack over a roasting tin.
  3. Roast for 40–50 minutes, basting with melted butter every 10 minutes, until the centre reaches 63 °C (see Notes).
  4. About 10 minutes before it is done, baste it once more, dust it with the flour and salt and turn the oven up to 240 °C, or switch to the grill, until the coating froths and browns. Don't baste it again.
  5. Move the meat to a warm serving dish and leave it to rest.
  6. For the sauce, pour off all but about 2 tbsp of the butter and juices from the tin. Set the tin over medium heat, stir in the flour, onion and anchovies and cook for 3–4 minutes. Add the water, vinegar and sugar, scrape up the brown bits and simmer for 3–4 minutes. It should taste balanced, neither sweet nor sour; adjust with a few drops more vinegar or a pinch more sugar.
  7. Strain the sauce through a sieve into the dish around the roast.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the trimmed and larded fillet roasted on the spit and basted often with butter, the final dusting with flour and salt until it froths, and the pan sauce of flour, onion, two anchovies, water, vinegar and sugar strained over the roast are the book's. The oven, the temperatures, the times and the other amounts are ours.

Frothing

dredging a roast with flour at the end and letting it froth in front of the fire was a common 18th-century way to give it a crisp, golden crust.

Safety

larding carries surface bacteria into the meat, so cook it to at least 63 °C in the centre (medium).

The cut

īkšķu gaļa, "the meat under the kidneys", is the fillet; a whole one weighs 2–3 kg. A boned sirloin roast also works, roasted a little longer.

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