№ 1Tā brūnā zupa
Ta bruhna Suppe.
Oriģināls1796
Nemm labbu gabbalu wehrschu gallas no pakkalas gurneem, desmit peezpadesmit , kà schim brihscham waijaga; nogrees plakkanus gabbalus pirksta-beesumâ un sakull tohs stipri. Nosmehre dselsu dibbeni labbi ar sweestu un apkaisi tohs gallas gabbalus ar kweeschu milteem us weenu pussi, un scho pussi leez us dibbeni, un wiss apkahrt tahm mallahm ta . Kad nu wiss tà nolikts, peeleez wissadas Saknes, , , Selleri, sihki sagreestus Burkanus un Sihpoles, kà trihs tschetrus gabbalus no weena schkinka. Leez to wissu us karsteem pelneem, usleez wahku us to , ka wiss bruhns ; bet paraugi , ka tas ne peedegg. Pehz wairak ohgles peeleez, bet gaischi tam uggunim ne buhs ne mas degt! — Kamehr nu tas werd, no tahs atlikkuschas gallas labbu Suppi wahri, ar kahdahm saknehm un weenu gabbalu . Kad winsch kahdu stundu us ugguni stahwejis un wiss jau bruhns rahdahs, tad leij trihs no tahs Suppes klaht, bet ne apmaisi to, kas eeksch ta dibbenâ. — Kad winsch kahdu brihdi tà wirris, peeleij atkal tikpat no tahs Suppes, kamehr tu nomanni ka wiss labbi bruhns tappis; tad peeleij wehl Suppes, zik waijaga, un tà lai wiss kohpâ werd, kamehr bruhns rahdahs. Eeberr sahli, un isleij wissu zaur kahdâ blohdâ, kur winna stahweht warr, kamehr tahs druskas pee dibbena nostahjuschees. To spohschu Suppi pawirrina ar labbi sagreestahm saknehm, un nosmell tohs taukus no , tad wiss gattaws.
Kad tahdu Suppi gribb us galdu nest, leez eeksch tahs blohdas us ohgleem restetas baltas maises gabbalus, arri siwju- gallas-Puddinu, un nopluzzinatus lappas, ko wissu ar to Suppi iswahriht buhs. — Kas Nuhdeles eelikt gribb, tam ne waijaga Saknes un nemt, bet restetes maises ween ja paleek.
Mūsdienu rakstībā2026
Ņem labu gabalu vēršu gaļas no pakaļas gurniem, desmit piecpadsmit , kā šim brīžam vajaga; nogriez plakanus gabalus pirksta biezumā un sakul tos stipri. Nosmērē dzelzs dibenu labi ar sviestu un apkaisi tos gaļas gabalus ar kviešu miltiem uz vienu pusi, un šo pusi liec uz dibenu, un viss apkārt tām malām tā . Kad nu viss tā nolikts, pieliec visādas saknes, , , seleri, sīki sagrieztus burkānus un sīpoles, kā trīs četrus gabalus no viena šķiņķa. Liec to visu uz karstiem pelniem, uzliec vāku uz to , ka viss brūns ; bet paraugi , ka tas nepiedeg. Pēc vairāk ogles pieliec, bet gaiši tam ugunim nebūs nemaz degt! — Kamēr nu tas verd, no tās atlikušas gaļas labu zupu vāri ar kādām saknēm un vienu gabalu . Kad viņš kādu stundu uz uguni stāvējis un viss jau brūns rādās, tad lej trīs no tās zupas klāt, bet neapmaisi to, kas iekš tā dibenā. — Kad viņš kādu brīdi tā viris, pielej atkal tikpat no tās zupas, kamēr tu nomani, ka viss labi brūns tapis; tad pielej vēl zupas, cik vajaga, un tā lai viss kopā verd, kamēr brūns rādās. Ieber sāli un izlej visu caur kādā bļodā, kur viņa stāvēt var, kamēr tās druskas pie dibena nostājušies. To spožu zupu pavirina ar labi sagrieztām saknēm un nosmel tos taukus no , tad viss gatavs.
Kad tādu zupu grib uz galdu nest, liec iekš tās bļodas uz oglēm baltas maizes gabalus, arī zivju gaļas pudiņu, un lapas, ko visu ar to zupu izvārīt būs. — Kas nūdeles ielikt grib, tam nevajaga saknes un ņemt, bet maizes vien jāpaliek.
Sastāvdaļas15
| Mūsdienās | 1796 | English | Daudzums |
|---|---|---|---|
| vēršu gaļa | wehrschu galla | beef (hindquarter) | 10–15 mārc. |
| sviests | sweests | butter | |
| kviešu milti | kweeschu milti | wheat flour | |
| burkāni (mores) | Mohres | carrots | |
| pētersīļi | Pehtersiljes | parsley root | |
| selerija | Selleri | celery | |
| burkāni | Burkani | carrots | |
| sīpoli | Sihpoles | onions | |
| šķiņķis | schkinkis | ham | 3–4 gabali |
| ingvers | Ingberis | ginger | |
| sāls | sahls | salt | |
| grauzdēta baltmaizepasniegšanai | baltas maises gabbali | toasted white bread | |
| zivju vai gaļas pudiņšpasniegšanai | siwju- jeb gallas-Puddins | fish or meat pudding | |
| spinātipasniegšanai | Spinates lappas | spinach | |
| nūdelescits variants | Nuhdeles | noodles |
Paņēmieni
- brūnināt
- vārīt
- izkāst
Birkas
- buljons
- vēršu gaļa
Piezīmes
- Zupu brūnina divos posmos: vispirms gaļu ar saknēm un šķiņķi grāpī uz karstiem pelniem, tad pa daļām pielej atsevišķi vārītu gaļas buljonu.
- noplucinātus spinātes lapas: vīriešu dzimtes forma pie lapas tāda ir oriģinālā.
Modern recipe (EN)
Brown beef soup Serves 6 · about 4 hours · Adapted from the 1796 recipe; not yet tested.
The book gives 10 or 15 mārciņas of beef and 3 or 4 pieces of ham, which converts to 4.2–6.3 kg of beef; it gives no other amounts.
Ingredients
For the broth
- 1 kg beef shin or brisket, in large pieces
- 3 l water
- 1 carrot, 1 parsley root and a small piece of celeriac
- ½ tsp ground ginger, or a 2 cm piece of dried ginger root
For browning
- 800 g lean beef from the hindquarter (topside, silverside or rump)
- 30 g butter, softened
- 2 tbsp plain flour
- 1 carrot, 1 parsley root and ¼ celeriac, roughly chopped
- 1 more carrot and 1 onion, finely chopped
- 100 g cooked ham, in 3 or 4 pieces
- Salt
To finish and serve
- 1 carrot, 1 parsley root and a small piece of celeriac, cut into fine matchsticks
- 100 g spinach leaves
- 6 slices of white bread
Method
1. Start the broth first: put the shin in a large pot with the water, bring slowly to the boil and skim off the foam. Add the roots and ginger, partly cover and simmer gently for 2½–3 hours. Strain it as you need it; you should end up with about 2 l. 2. While the broth simmers, cut the browning beef into finger-thick slices (about 1.5 cm) and beat them thinner with a meat mallet or rolling pin. 3. Butter the bottom and sides of a heavy casserole, preferably cast iron. Dust the slices with flour on one side only and lay them floured side down over the bottom and up the sides of the pot. 4. Scatter the chopped roots, carrot, onion and ham over the meat. Cover and set over low heat for 1–1½ hours. The meat first gives off juice; once that has cooked away, the meat and vegetables brown and a brown crust forms on the bottom. Check every 15 minutes or so: it should sizzle gently and never burn. If it is still wet after an hour, take the lid off. 5. When everything is well browned, pour in 3 ladles (about 300 ml) of the hot broth. Don't stir. Simmer uncovered until the liquid has almost gone and the bottom browns again, 15–20 minutes. Repeat once or twice, until the meat and juices are a deep, even brown. 6. Pour in the rest of the broth (about 1.5 l), bring to the boil and simmer gently for 30–45 minutes, until the soup is evenly brown. Season with salt. 7. Pour through a colander into a bowl or jug and leave for 15–20 minutes, so the sediment settles. Pour the clear soup into a clean pan, leaving the sediment behind. For a clearer soup, pour it through a sieve lined with muslin. 8. Add the root matchsticks and simmer for 8–10 minutes, until just tender. Skim the fat off the top. 9. Blanch the spinach in boiling water for 30 seconds and drain. Toast the bread. Put the spinach into the soup for a minute, then lay the toast in a tureen or bowls and pour the soup over it.
Notes
- What the book says vs. what we added: the method is the book's: beef slices browned slowly with roots and ham in a covered iron pot (grāpis) on hot ashes, a separate broth added a few ladles at a time and cooked down, then more broth, settling, and a final simmer with fresh roots. The book raises the heat slowly with more coals but never lets a bright flame burn; a low hob does the same job. The amounts, times and cuts of beef are ours. The book makes the broth from "the rest of the beef"; we use shin.
- Scaled down: the book uses 4.2–6.3 kg of beef for a manor table. We use 1.8 kg for 6 servings. The browned beef and the shin are strained out; the book doesn't say what to do with them, so serve them separately or use them in another dish.
- Roots: the book names both mores and burkāni, and both mean carrots. It may mean two kinds of carrot; we use ordinary carrots for both. We read Selleri as celeriac.
- Serving: besides toast, the book suggests a fish or meat pudding cooked in the soup (chapter 4, not yet transcribed). For a noodle version it says to leave out the roots and spinach and keep only the toast; we read this as noodles plus toast.
- Ginger: the book's "piece of ginger" was whole dried ginger root.
- Technique: adding broth in small amounts and letting it cook down onto the browned meat each time gives a deep brown, clear soup without roasting bones in an oven.
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