Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 21X. nodaļa

Saimes desas

Household offal sausages

  • Makes about 1.4 kg (6–8 servings)
  • about 3 hours, or 2 weeks curing and 8 days smoking for the cured version
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Saimes dessas.

Modernizētslpp. 451 · PDF 465

The book gives no quantities; the amounts below are ours. We give a cooked version, and a cured and smoked one closer to the book (see Notes).

Method

4 soļi
  1. Soak the casings in lukewarm water for 30 minutes and rinse them inside (our addition).
  2. Rinse the kidneys and soak them in cold water for 30 minutes (our addition). Cut all the meat and offal into cubes and chill them in the freezer for 30 minutes. Keep everything below 4 °C while you work.
  3. Mince everything through a 4–5 mm plate (or chop finely with a heavy knife). Weigh it, then knead in the salt or curing salt (18 g of salt per kg for the cooked version, 28 g of curing salt per kg for the cured one), pepper, ginger, onion, herbs and diced fat until sticky.
  4. Stuff the casings firmly, prick out air pockets, and tie them into rings of about 30 cm by tying the two ends together, as the book does.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book takes all kinds of meat that sits with the liver, lungs and heart, chops it very finely with kidneys, lungs, cow's or sheep's udders and as much meat as can be cut from the bones or from cow's heads, kneads it with salt, pepper, ginger, chopped onions, marjoram, thyme and chopped fat, stuffs it very tightly into casings and ties the ends together. The sausages go into a tub (vērpele), covered with salty brine, with a lid and stones on top, and are kept cold; they keep a year or longer, or after 2 weeks in brine they can be taken out and smoked for 8 days. The amounts, curing salt, brine strength, temperatures and cooking before eating are ours.

Safety

raw offal sausages stored in brine for a year were normal in a manor cellar, but don't try it at home. Offal spoils fast, and raw, salted, cold-smoked sausage can carry botulism, listeria and salmonella. Use curing salt for anything you brine or cold-smoke, keep it below 4 °C, and always cook the sausages to 72 °C in the centre before eating.

Offal today

hearts and kidneys are easy to buy. Lungs are legal food in the EU and the UK but rarely sold (they are banned as food in the USA); use more heart instead. Udder is hardly sold anywhere now; fatty pork cheek or belly gives a similar richness.

Who ate them

saime was the manor household, the servants and farmhands. These were cheap sausages made from offal and trimmings to feed them through the year.

Cooked version

  • Poach the rings in water at 75–80 °C for 30–40 minutes, until the centre reaches 72 °C. Cool them in cold water and dry them.
  • Brown them in a frying pan, or hot-smoke them at 60–80 °C for 1–2 hours. They keep 4–5 days in the fridge or 3 months in the freezer.

Cured and smoked version (the book's way)

  • Pack the rings into a non-metal tub or bucket, pour over the cold curing brine so they are covered, lay a plate on top and weight it down, as the book does with a lid and stones. Keep it in the fridge (2–4 °C) for 10–14 days.
  • Take them out, rinse them, pat them dry and dry them on a rack in the fridge overnight.
  • Cold-smoke them for 8 days in sessions of 6–10 hours, keeping the chamber below 20 °C.
  • Always cook them before eating: poach them at 75–80 °C until the centre reaches 72 °C, then brown or grill them. Keep the smoked raw sausages in the fridge and use them within 2 weeks.

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