Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 57IX. nodaļa

Pastēte no ēriņiem

Herring pie with pike forcemeat and anchovy sauce

  • Serves 6
  • 12–24 hours soaking, then about 2 hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Pasteete no ehrineem.

Modernizētslpp. 420–421 · PDF 434–435
6 porcijas

The book gives, for 4 herrings, 1 mārciņa of boned pike, ½ mārciņa of beef suet and 6 eggs for the forcemeat, and 4 anchovies, ¼ mārciņa of clarified butter, 4 eggs, 1 spoon of flour, 4 egg yolks and 1 lemon for the sauce: about 420 g pike, 210 g suet and 105 g butter. We keep the 4 herrings, use about three quarters of the forcemeat and half the sauce.

Method

9 soļi
  1. Soak the herring: skin the fillets and pull out the bones, cutting each fillet in two or three. Soak whole salted herring in plenty of cold water for 12–24 hours, changing the water every 6 hours as the book says; lightly salted fillets need only 1–2 hours. Taste a corner: it should be pleasantly salty, not harsh. Pat dry with a clean cloth.
  2. The forcemeat: in a food processor, purée the pike, suet, soaked bread, onion and shallots until smooth, then work in the 4 eggs, pepper, mace and a pinch of salt (or pound it all in a mortar, as the book does). Scrape it into a heavy pan and stir over low heat for 5–8 minutes, until it stiffens into a thick, smooth paste like a dough. Spread it out on a plate, cool, then chill.
  3. Heat the oven to 200 °C (180 °C fan). Butter a 22–24 cm ovenproof pie dish about 5 cm deep.
  4. Beat 1 yolk in a shallow bowl. Dip each piece of herring in the yolk and wrap it in a layer of forcemeat, using about two thirds of it in all.
  5. Stir the milk into the remaining forcemeat to make it soft and spreadable and spread it over the bottom of the dish. Lay the coated herring on top, mounded slightly in the middle. Scatter over the capers and lemon slices, if using.
  6. Cut a strip of pastry 3 cm wide, wet the rim of the dish and press the strip onto it. Brush the strip with water, lay the rest of the pastry over as a lid, press it onto the strip, trim and crimp. Cut a steam hole (our addition) and brush with the yolk glaze.
  7. Bake for 35–40 minutes, until the pastry is golden and the centre reaches 70 °C.
  8. The sauce, while the pie bakes: off the heat, whisk the anchovies, clarified butter, whole eggs and flour together in a small saucepan. Set over low heat and whisk until warm and just starting to thicken, then whisk in the hot broth a little at a time. Whisk the 2 yolks with a ladle of the sauce, stir them back in and cook gently, whisking, until it thickens and bubbles once or twice, 3–5 minutes. The flour keeps it from curdling. Add lemon juice to taste.
  9. At the table, cut round the lid, lift it off, pour in the sauce and put the lid back, or pour the sauce into the pie through the steam hole and serve the rest separately.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book skins and bones the herrings, soaks them for 24 hours with fresh water every 6 hours and dries them with a napkin. For each 4 herrings the forcemeat is boned pike, beef suet, 6 eggs, bread soaked in milk, onions and shallots, chopped and pounded in a mortar and stirred over the fire into a thick paste; the suet may be pounded separately and added on the fire with pepper, salt and mace. When it is quite cold, each piece of herring is dipped in egg yolk and coated with it. The rest of the forcemeat, thinned with milk, goes on the bottom of a pewter dish, the herring on top, a pastry rim round the dish, a pastry lid brushed with yolk. The sauce is 4 chopped anchovies stirred over the fire with clarified butter, 4 eggs and a spoon of flour, meat broth, 4 more yolks and a lemon's juice, cooked until thick and poured in when the lid is cut open. Capers and lemon slices may go on the herrings, so that the middle stands higher than the rim. The kind of pastry, the food processor, the reduced amounts, the oven temperature and the times are ours.

Herring

ēriņi are herrings (German Hering), here salted. Barrel herring in 1796 was far saltier than most salted herring today, so taste as you soak.

Safety

salting doesn't reliably kill parasites in herring, but baking does when the pie is hot right through. The forcemeat is cooked before it goes in.

Pike can be replaced by zander, perch or any firm white fish.

Pastry

the book only says "a pastry lid" here; 09-000 gives its puff pastry and other doughs, and 09-000b the general method, with the rim (rante) round a dish and no bottom crust.

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