Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 29IX. nodaļa

Torte no baltas kapūnu gaļas

Sweet chicken and marrow tart

  • Serves 8
  • about 1½ hours, plus roasting the bird
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Torte no baltas kappunu gallas.

Modernizētslpp. 384–385 · PDF 398–399
8 porcijas

The book gives 8 or 10 eggs and no other quantities; we use 4. The other amounts are ours.

Method

7 soļi
  1. Make the pastry: rub the butter into the flour and salt, then add the yolk and enough water to bring it together. Chill for 30 minutes, then line a 22 cm tart tin about 3 cm deep. Chill again for 15 minutes.
  2. Heat the oven to 190 °C (170 °C fan). Line the case with baking paper and baking beans and bake for 15 minutes; remove the paper and beans and bake for 5 minutes more (our addition, so the base doesn't go soggy). Turn the oven down to 180 °C (160 °C fan).
  3. Chop the chicken and marrow or suet, then grind them in a food processor to a smooth, soft paste, scraping down the sides. The book pounds them in a mortar.
  4. Beat in the sugar, lemon zest, orange-flower water, salt and egg yolks.
  5. Whisk the egg whites to stiff peaks and fold them in, a third at a time.
  6. Spoon into the pastry case and bake for 30–35 minutes, until risen, golden and set in the middle; a skewer should come out clean.
  7. Serve warm, as the book says: once cold, the fat sets and the texture turns dense.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the soft meat of a roast capon is chopped very fine with a little beef marrow or fresh suet, pounded in a mortar to a soft paste, and mixed with sugar, grated lemon peel, orange-flower water and salt; the yolks of 8 or 10 eggs are beaten in and the whites, beaten separately to snow, folded in last. It is baked "as usual" and served warm because of the fat. The pastry case, blind baking, amounts, temperatures and times are ours.

Marrow and suet

in this chapter vēršu smadzenes are beef bone marrow (German Rindermark), not brains. Ask a butcher for marrow bones cut into 5 cm lengths and push the marrow out with your thumb; soak it in cold salted water for a few hours to draw out the blood. Fresh beef suet (kidney fat), finely grated, works as well. Butter gives a milder, lighter result.

Capon

a capon is a castrated cockerel, rich and tender; a free-range roast chicken is the usual substitute. Use only the white meat, as the title says.

Sweet meat

sugar and flower water with chicken is old European court cooking (compare French blanc-manger). Expect a light, sweet-savoury soufflé tart, not a pudding.

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