Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 14IX. nodaļa

Torte no ķēvpupām, briedenēm, kartupeļiem, morēm jeb borkānēm

Sweet morel, potato or carrot tart (four fillings)

  • Serves 6
  • about 1½ hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Torte no kehwpuppahm, breedenehm, kartupeleem, mohrehm jeb bohrkanehm.

Modernizētslpp. 371–372 · PDF 385–386
6 porcijas

The book gives quantities only for the fourth filling: ½ mārciņa of clarified butter (209 g), 10 or 12 egg yolks and 2 or 3 white rolls. We've halved those. The other amounts are ours.

Method

8 soļi
  1. The case. Roll the pastry to 3 mm and line a 23–24 cm tart tin with a removable base, letting it come 2–3 cm up the sides. Pinch the top edge into a pattern with your fingertips, as the book's introduction describes for a raiba rante. Brush the base with egg yolk and chill while you make a filling. Put a baking sheet in the oven and heat it to 200 °C (180 °C fan).
  2. Filling 1. Soak dried morels in warm water for 20 minutes, then lift them out and rinse each one well, as grit hides in the folds. Chop the morels and champignons finely. Put them in a pan with the cream, crushed rusks, sugar, lemon zest and butter and simmer gently, stirring, for 15–20 minutes, until thick. The morels must cook through; they are toxic raw. Cool completely.
  3. Filling 2. Boil the potatoes in their skins until soft, peel and mash them. Stir in the cream, butter, sugar, lemon zest and juice and allspice and cook gently for 5 minutes, stirring, to a thick purée. Cool.
  4. Filling 3. Scrape the carrots, boil them until very soft (15–20 minutes) and mash or purée them finely. Cook the purée with the sugar, cinnamon, salt and lemon zest over low heat, stirring, until thick enough to hold its shape, 5–10 minutes. Cool.
  5. For fillings 1–3: spread the cold filling in the case and bake on the hot sheet for 25–30 minutes, until the pastry is puffed and deep golden. For filling 3, mix the icing ingredients smooth and spread over the warm tart; put it back in the switched-off oven for 5 minutes so the icing sets.
  6. Filling 4. Scrape the carrots and boil them whole for 8–10 minutes, until almost tender. Cool, pat dry and grate them finely. Squeeze the milk out of the roll. Beat the butter with the egg yolks, the roll, the sugar, cinnamon and lemon zest until smooth and pale. Stir in the carrots. Whisk the whites to stiff peaks and fold them in last.
  7. Pour filling 4 into the pastry case, or into a buttered 22 cm springform without pastry, and bake at 180 °C (160 °C fan) for 40–45 minutes, until risen and set; a skewer pushed into the middle should come out clean.
  8. Serve warm or cold.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book gives four fillings for the same kind of tart. Morels or champignons are soaked, washed, chopped and stewed with sweet cream, crushed rusks, sugar, grated lemon peel and a piece of clarified butter until thick, cooled, and baked in fine puff pastry. Potatoes are boiled, peeled, pounded and stewed with cream, butter, sugar, lemon and allspice. Mores are scraped, boiled soft, pounded and stewed with sugar, cinnamon, salt and lemon peel, baked in puff pastry and then iced with sugar, lemon juice, egg white and orange-flower or rose water. Borkānes are scraped, boiled until nearly done, dried, grated and beaten into butter, egg yolks, soaked rolls, sugar, cinnamon and lemon peel, with the whipped whites folded in, and baked in puff pastry or a tin mould. The amounts (except filling 4's), the egg-yolk wash, the oven temperatures and times are ours. The book doesn't say whether fillings 2 and 3 are cooked down until thick, but they must be to sit in pastry.

A sweet mushroom tart

this sounds strange today, but sweetened morel tarts with cream and lemon appear in German cookbooks of the period. Ķēvpupas are probably morels (see glossary). Dried morels are easy to buy; never eat them raw or undercooked. Champignons alone give a milder tart.

Two words for carrots

mores (from German Möhren) and borkānes (the Courland form of burkāni) both mean carrots. The book may have meant two varieties, but ordinary carrots do for both. Filling 4 is in effect an early carrot cake.

Pastry

"fine puff pastry" is the laminated butter pastry described at the start of the chapter (09-000). Shop-bought all-butter puff pastry is the practical choice.

Raw egg white in the icing

the icing is not cooked. Use pasteurised egg white, or leave it out and use only icing sugar and lemon juice.

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