№ 47VII. nodaļa

Kā visus smalkus aukstus cepešus ar gārdu sulu var sataisīt

Cold roast birds reheated in a brown sauce made from their bones

  • Serves 4
  • about 2 hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Kà wissus smalkus aukstus zeppeschus ar gahrdu sullu warr sataisiht.

Modernizētslpp. 300–301 · PDF 314–315
4 porcijas

The book gives no quantities; the amounts below are ours.

Method

6 soļi
  1. Take the meat off the bones and cut it into small pieces. Keep it in the fridge until step 6.
  2. Chop the carcass and bones into small pieces with a heavy cleaver, or crush them in a large mortar. Chop the ham.
  3. Melt the butter in a large saucepan, stir in the flour and cook over medium-low heat, stirring all the time, for 5–8 minutes, until nut-brown. Add the onion, bay leaves, bones and ham and stir over the heat for 5 minutes.
  4. Pour in the stock a little at a time, stirring and scraping the bottom. Bring to the boil, then simmer gently, partly covered, for 1–1½ hours, stirring now and then, until reduced to about 400 ml and lightly thickened.
  5. Strain through a fine sieve, pressing hard on the solids. Throw away the bones.
  6. Put the meat into the sauce with the bay leaf and any of the ragout additions you are using. Simmer gently for 10 minutes, until the meat is hot through (75 °C). If the sauce is too thick, thin it with the wine and lemon juice. Season and serve.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the method is the book's: the roast cut small, all the bones pounded very fine in a mortar, with more meat if there isn't enough, raw or boiled, and above all a couple of pieces of ham, pounded together; then a brown roux, chopped onions, bay leaves and the pounded mixture stirred well over the fire, brown or other beef stock or boiling water added, boiled until thick and strained through a horsehair sieve; the roast pieces cooked again in this sauce with the same seasonings as the ragout (07-046), and the sauce thinned with wine and lemon juice if it is too short and thick. The salt and all amounts and times are ours.

Pounding the bones

a mortar big enough for a carcass is rare today. Chopping the bones small with a cleaver does the same job. For a darker, richer sauce, roast the chopped bones at 200 °C for 20 minutes before step 3 (our suggestion). Don't put bones in a food processor.

"Fine" roasts means birds and game rather than large joints, which the book deals with in 07-045 and 07-046. This sauce is close to the French salmis, in which roast game birds are reheated in a sauce made from their own carcasses.

Leftovers

keep cooked meat in the fridge for no more than 2 days and reheat it only once, until piping hot.

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