Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 37VI. nodaļa

Makaroni

Home-made macaroni three ways

  • Serves 4–6
  • about 1¼ hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Makarohni.

Modernizētslpp. 260–262 · PDF 274–276
4 porcijas

The book gives no quantities; the amounts below are ours.

Method

6 soļi
  1. Noodles: heap the flour on a board or in a bowl, add the eggs and enough cream to make a stiff dough. Knead for 8–10 minutes, until smooth. Wrap and rest for 30 minutes (our addition).
  2. Roll it out very thinly with a rolling pin (or a pasta machine), to about 1 mm. Dust with flour, roll up loosely and cut across into thin strips, 2–3 mm wide. Shake them loose. You can dry them on a floured cloth for a few hours, or in an oven barely warm (50 °C) with the door ajar, and store them in a jar.
  3. Cooking: bring a large pan of water to the boil with the salt. Add the noodles and stir so they don't stick. As soon as the water comes back to the boil, cook fresh noodles for 1–2 minutes more (dried ones 3–5 minutes), until just tender. Drain well, keeping a cupful of the cooking water for the layered version.
  4. With brown butter and Parmesan: while the noodles cook, melt the butter in a small pan and cook it over medium heat for 3–4 minutes, until golden brown and smelling nutty. Put the noodles in a warm dish, pour the butter over and scatter the Parmesan on top. Or serve the butter in a sauceboat and the cheese on a plate.
  5. Sour sauce: whisk the cold milk with the flour and egg yolks in a small pan, add the butter and heat gently, stirring all the time, until it thickens (about 80 °C; don't let it boil). Take it off the heat and stir in the vinegar. If it is too sharp, sweeten it with a little sugar. Pour it over the noodles in a dish.
  6. Layered with egg and parsley: hard-boil the eggs for 10 minutes, cool, peel and chop them finely; mix half with the parsley. Scatter the plain chopped egg over the bottom of a warm dish, add a layer of noodles, then the parsley and egg, then the rest of the noodles. Spoon over a few tablespoons of the cooking water and pour the browned butter over. If you like, sprinkle with breadcrumbs and squeeze over the lemon.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

a stiff dough of wheat flour, fresh cream and eggs, rolled thin with a rolling pin and cut into fine noodles "that look like little worms", which can be dried in the air or a warm oven and stored; boiled in salted water only until it boils up once, stirred so they don't stick, drained and served with golden-brown butter and grated Parmesan (or the butter in a sauceboat and the cheese on a separate plate) are the book's. So are the two variations: a sour sauce of milk, vinegar, a little flour and egg yolk whisked together, with butter, stirred over the coals until thick and sweetened with sugar if too sour; and layers of chopped hard-boiled egg, parsley and egg, and noodles, moistened with a little of the cooking water, served with brown butter, and optionally sprinkled with breadcrumbs and lemon juice. The resting, the amounts, the times and adding the vinegar last are ours.

Sour sauce

the book whisks the vinegar in with everything else from the start. We add it after thickening, which makes curdling less likely.

"Macaroni"

in the 18th century the word covered pasta in general. The book's thin noodles that "look like little worms" are close to Italian vermicelli, whose name means just that.

Parmesan was an expensive import, a sign of a manor kitchen.

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