Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 103III. nodaļa

Vēžu krēmu cept

Sweet crayfish soufflé

  • Serves 6
  • about 1½ hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Wehschu krehmu zept.

Modernizētslpp. 191 · PDF 205
6 porcijas

The book gives 30 crayfish, ½ mārciņa of butter, 1 lemon, ¼ mārciņa of sugar and 8 eggs, which converts to 30, 210 g, 1, 105 g and 8; it gives no amount of bread or cream. We keep the book's amounts.

Method

8 soļi
  1. Chill the live crayfish in the freezer for 20 minutes, then drop them head first, a few at a time, into a large pan of fast-boiling salted water and cook for 5 minutes. Drain. Peel the tails, pull out the dark thread and chop the meat very finely. Remove the stomach sacs from the heads.
  2. Crush the shells in a mortar or a sturdy food processor and cook them in the butter over low heat for 15 minutes, stirring, until the butter is red. Strain through a sieve lined with muslin, pressing hard. You'll have about 170 g crayfish butter.
  3. Melt half the crayfish butter in a saucepan, add the breadcrumbs and cook gently for 2–3 minutes. Pour in the cream and stir over low heat for 3–5 minutes, until it thickens to a smooth paste. Take off the heat and cool for 10 minutes.
  4. Rub the sugar lumps all over the lemon until they are yellow and oily, then crush them. With caster sugar, grate the zest finely and rub it into the sugar with your fingertips.
  5. Stir the lemon sugar, chopped crayfish tails and the 8 yolks into the bread and cream.
  6. Heat the oven to 190 °C (170 °C fan). Brush a shallow 2 l baking dish with some of the remaining crayfish butter.
  7. Whisk the whites with the pinch of salt until stiff, "like snow". Fold them into the mixture in three batches.
  8. Pour into the dish and bake for 20–25 minutes, until risen, golden and just set in the middle. Serve at once.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book shells 30 boiled crayfish, pounds the shells and fries them red in ½ mārciņa of butter, chops the tails finely, braises crumbled white bread in half of the butter, adds cream and stirs it over the heat, rubs a lemon with ¼ mārciņa of sugar and adds "both" with 8 yolks, folds in the whites beaten "like snow" and bakes it for a quarter of an hour in a raušu panna before turning it into a dish. The amounts of bread and cream, adding the tails with the yolks, the oven temperature and the salt are ours.

The other half of the butter

the book never says where it goes. We use some for the dish; the rest is good on toast.

Sweet crayfish

lemon sugar in a crayfish dish is genuine 18th-century taste. It was probably served as an entremets, between the savoury and the sweet courses.

Baking

the book bakes it for a quarter of an hour in a shallow pan with embers above and below. A shallow dish in a hot oven takes a little longer; a deep soufflé dish would need 30–35 minutes.

Crayfish

buy them live and cook them the same day, discarding any that are dead. Frozen whole cooked crayfish work too: thaw them and start peeling.

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