Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 97III. nodaļa

Lipināti vēži

Crayfish shaped in their shells, with sweetbread and morel sauce

  • Serves 4 as a first course
  • about 2 hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Lippinati wehschi.

Modernizētslpp. 187 · PDF 201
4 porcijas

The book gives no quantities; the amounts below are ours.

Method

9 soļi
  1. Soak the sweetbreads in cold water for 1–2 hours, changing the water twice. Simmer them in salted water for 10 minutes, until firm, then cool them in cold water, peel off the membrane and chop finely.
  2. Soak the dried morels in 200 ml warm water for 30 minutes. Rinse each one well to remove grit and chop finely. Strain and keep the soaking liquid.
  3. Chill the live crayfish in the freezer for 20 minutes, then drop them head first, a few at a time, into a large pan of fast-boiling salted water and cook for 5 minutes. Drain.
  4. Twist off the tails, peel them and pull out the dark thread. Keep 10–12 of the best head shells with their claws; scrape out the stomach sac and gills, rinse and dry them.
  5. Soak the bread in the milk for 10 minutes and squeeze lightly. Chop the tail meat very finely (or pulse it in a food processor) and work it with the bread and salt into a firm paste. If it is too soft to hold a shape, add a few dry breadcrumbs.
  6. Heat the oven to 200 °C and butter a shallow baking tin. Fill each shell with the paste and shape more paste behind it into a tail, so it looks like a crayfish again. Brush with the yolk and bake for 15–20 minutes, until golden brown.
  7. Meanwhile, put the broth, lemon slices, sweetbreads, morels and a few spoonfuls of the morel liquid in a pan and simmer for 10 minutes.
  8. Whisk the 2 yolks in a bowl with a ladle of the hot sauce, then stir them into the pan off the heat. Warm over low heat, stirring, until the sauce thickens slightly; don't let it boil. Season with salt.
  9. Lay the crayfish in a warm dish and pour the sauce over.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book makes a stiff paste of chopped crayfish tails and white bread soaked in milk, gives it the shape of a crayfish again, brushes it with yolk and bakes it golden brown in a raušu panna. The sauce is boiled sweetbreads (our reading) and morels chopped fine, cooked with meat broth and lemon slices and beaten hard with egg yolk. Putting the paste into the shells is our reading of "clean the crayfish as just taught" (03-096). The amounts, the seasoning, the oven and the times are ours.

Raušu panna

a shallow lidded pan set on embers with more embers on the lid. A hot oven does the same job.

Sweetbreads

the book's pienagaļa, literally "milk meat", is probably the German Kalbsmilch, calf's sweetbread, a classic partner of morels and crayfish tails. Order sweetbreads from a butcher. If you can't get them, use finely chopped poached chicken breast; that's our substitute, not the book's.

Crayfish

buy them live and cook them the same day, discarding any that are dead. Frozen whole cooked crayfish work too: thaw them and start at step 4.

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