Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 66III. nodaļa

Zandāti ar brūnu jeb dzeltenu sinepu sulu

Pike-perch with brown or yellow mustard sauce

  • Serves 6
  • about 1 hour
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Sandahti ar bruhnu jeb dseltenu sinnepu sullu.

Modernizētslpp. 170 · PDF 184
6 porcijas

The book gives 2 spoons of mustard for the brown sauce, and 2 egg yolks with 1–2 spoons of mustard for the yellow one. We read the spoons as tablespoons. The other amounts are ours.

Method

6 soļi
  1. Scale and gut the fish and pull out the gills. Split it lengthwise along the backbone and cut each half into large pieces, 6–8 cm wide. Rinse well.
  2. Put the pieces in a wide pan, cover with cold water and add the salt. Bring slowly to a simmer, skim, and cook gently for 5–8 minutes after it starts to simmer, until the flesh flakes and reaches 63 °C. Keep warm in the liquid, off the heat, while you finish the sauce.
  3. Brown sauce: melt the butter, stir in the flour and cook over medium heat, stirring, until nut-brown, 5–6 minutes. Add the onion and cook for 2 minutes, then whisk in the broth, mustard, zest and lemon slices. Simmer, stirring now and then, for 10–15 minutes, until thick enough to coat a spoon. Season with the vinegar and sugar and fish out the zest.
  4. Yellow sauce: off the heat, beat the butter with the flour in a small pan, then beat in the yolks, mustard, zest, vinegar and sugar until smooth. Whisk in the broth, or the wine and water. Set over low heat and whisk all the time until it thickens and just starts to bubble, 4–6 minutes. Add salt if needed.
  5. Lift the fish out, drain it and arrange in a warm dish. Pour one sauce over, or serve both in sauceboats.
  6. Simplest of all: the book says pike-perch is also eaten with mustard and olive oil.

Notes

À Laberdan

"in the manner of Laberdan", the salt cod of German kitchens, which was boiled and served with mustard sauce or melted butter. Here fresh pike-perch gets the same treatment.

What the book says vs. what we added

the lengthwise split, the large pieces, the start in cold salted water and both sauces are the book's. The brown one is butter-browned flour, onion, mustard, lemon peel and slices simmered in broth and finished with wine vinegar and sugar; the yellow one is washed butter, yolks, mustard, lemon peel, vinegar and sugar thickened with broth or white wine and water. The amounts other than the mustard and yolks, the times and the flour in the yellow sauce are ours.

Mustard

18th-century mustard was coarse and sharp. A medium-hot or coarse-grained mustard is closest; Dijon gives a smoother, milder sauce.

Pike-perch

see 03-065. Cook it through; freshwater fish can carry parasites.

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