№ 76II. nodaļa

Teteris

Black grouse marinated in juniper vinegar, braised with mushrooms

  • Serves 4
  • about 2½ hours, plus 24 hours' marinating
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Tetteris.

Modernizētslpp. 116 · PDF 130
4 porcijas

The book gives no quantities except "a glass" of wine; the amounts below are ours.

Method

8 soļi
  1. Lay each bird on a board and beat the breast and legs a few times with a rolling pin to tenderise it. With farmed birds this step can be skipped.
  2. Soak the birds in cold water for 1 hour, then drain and pat dry.
  3. Bring the vinegar, water, juniper, allspice and salt to the boil. Put the birds in a snug non-metallic bowl or pot, pour the hot marinade over and cover. Leave to cool, then refrigerate for 24 hours, turning them once or twice.
  4. Lift the birds out and pat dry; strain and keep the marinade. Cut the fat into strips about 5 mm thick and thread them through the breasts with a larding needle in close rows. Without a needle, tie bacon rashers over the breasts.
  5. Melt the butter in a heavy casserole and brown the birds on all sides over medium heat, 8–10 minutes. Add 4 tbsp of the marinade and the water or stock, cover and braise over low heat (or in the oven at 160 °C) for 1–1½ hours, turning once. An old wild bird may need 2 hours. They are done when tender and the thickest part of the thigh reaches 75 °C. Lift them out and keep warm; keep the juices.
  6. For the sauce, melt the butter in a wide pan, stir in the flour and cook over medium-low heat, stirring, for 5–8 minutes, until nut-brown. Add the mushrooms and cook for 5 minutes. Stir in the braising juices and simmer for 5 minutes, then add the wine.
  7. Put the birds back into the sauce, cover and braise gently for another 10–15 minutes, turning them in it. Season with salt and pepper. Taste: if it is too sharp, add a little water.
  8. Lay the birds in a warm dish and pour the sauce over.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the method is the book's: the bird beaten tender, soaked for an hour, covered with hot vinegar spiced with juniper and allspice for a day and a night, then larded and braised in butter and vinegar until tender, finished with mushrooms in a brown roux and a glass of wine. Diluting the vinegar, refrigerating, the extra liquid for braising, the salt and all amounts and times are ours. The book also cuts off the head and lays it on the dish as decoration; birds are sold without heads today.

Vinegar

the book pours undiluted boiling vinegar over the bird. Today's wine vinegar (6%) used neat for 24 hours would make the meat sour and grainy, so we dilute it half and half.

Black grouse

scarce and protected or strictly limited in much of Europe, and rarely sold. Red grouse (UK, in season from 12 August), pheasant or guinea fowl are practical substitutes; a farmed guinea fowl needs only about 1 hour's braising. Old wild birds are tough, which is why the book beats and marinates them; as it says, the meat of black grouse is firm and needs long cooking.

Game safety

cook wild birds until the thigh reaches 75 °C. Check for lead shot while carving.

Variation

the book says the bird can also be made with a brown anchovy sauce (see 02-082), as long as it is braised well and for a long time.

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