Pawaru-Grahmata

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Slow-braised beef with lemon and allspice

  • Serves 6
  • about 5½ hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Gohsata Wehrschu-galla.

Modernizētslpp. 45–46 · PDF 59–60
6 porcijas

The book gives a handful of salt (about 30–40 g), one lemon and a spoon of plum sauce (about 15 ml); everything else below is ours. It simmers the meat from six to eleven in the morning, about 5 hours.

Method

8 soļi
  1. Cut the fat into strips about 5 mm thick and 5 cm long. Pare the zest of one lemon into strips. Mix the allspice with 1 tsp salt and roll the fat strips in it.
  2. Lard the beef with a larding needle, alternating fat and lemon zest. Without a needle, make deep slits with a thin knife and push the strips in.
  3. Put a small rack or trivet in the bottom of a heavy casserole that just holds the meat (the book uses a few small oak sticks). Set the beef on it, add the bay leaves and the zested lemon cut into pieces, sprinkle in about 12 g salt and pour in water just to cover, plus the vinegar.
  4. Bring slowly to the boil and skim thoroughly. Slice the second lemon, peel and all, and add it.
  5. Cover tightly and simmer very gently on the lowest heat, or in the oven at 150 °C, for 4–5 hours, until the meat is very tender. Check now and then that the liquid hasn't boiled away.
  6. Lift out the meat. If it isn't brown, brown it all over in a hot frying pan with a little butter. Strain the liquid and skim off the fat; you need about 750 ml.
  7. Melt 30 g butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and cook over medium heat, stirring, for 5–8 minutes until nut-brown. Whisk in the hot liquid and simmer for 10 minutes, until it thickens. For a darker, sweeter sauce, stir in the grated gingerbread and plum butter instead of, or as well as, the browned flour. Taste for salt.
  8. Slice the beef, warm it in the sauce for a few minutes and serve.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book larded the beef with fat and lemon peel rolled in allspice and salt, set it on oak sticks in a pot with bay leaves, lemon, a handful of salt, water and a little wine vinegar, skimmed it, added a whole sliced lemon and simmered it for five hours on coals. It then browned the meat separately if needed and thickened the liquid with browned flour, or with grated gingerbread and plum sauce. The cut, the amounts, the oven temperature and the rack are ours. We use less salt than a handful because the cooking liquid becomes the sauce.

Sealing the pot

the book says the pot can just be covered, but it's better sealed with dough, and then you must bore a small hole in the lid so the pot doesn't burst. A heavy lid that fits well does the same job today.

Gingerbread and plum

this is the same way Rhineland Sauerbraten is still thickened today, with gingerbread and fruit butter. We read the book's plūmju sula as thick plum butter; plum syrup or plum jam would also work.

Lemon

a whole lemon with its pith simmered for hours can make the sauce slightly bitter (02-002 warns about this). If you're worried, take the slices out after an hour.

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